EARLY this year, in company with our teacher, Dr. Leung Kin Cho, I started to visit his native village, San Chuen, which is about one hundred and ten miles inland from Canton. We crossed the harbor in a steam launch to the depot of the new Canton and Sam-shui Railroad. As soon as we arrived at the wharf, there was a rush for the train, which is still quite a novelty, as the new railroad has been open only a few months.
The first- and second-class coaches are very comfortable, but the third-class, in which most of the people ride, are little better than cattle cars, and fully as crowded.
RICE FIELD AND COUNTRY VILLAGE
An hour's ride brought us to Fat Shan, a city of five hundred thousand inhabitants. The English Wesleyan mission has had a Chinese hospital here for about twenty years. The next largest city on the route—Sai Nom—has about three hundred thousand people. We were two hours going from Canton to Sam-shui, a distance of thirty-five miles, the train making fourteen stops on the way. Had we gone by the water route, more than half a day would have been required to make the journey.
At Sam-shui ("three waters"—the rivers coming together here) we transferred to an old-fashioned "passenger boat," and were towed up the West River by a steam launch. The boat was small and crowded, and the air foul with the fumes of opium and tobacco. Among the passengers were three Buddhist priests. I am told that in Quang tung Province alone there are about ten thousand of these priests, counting young and old.
At 4 P. M. we arrived at Shu Hing Fu, seventy-five miles from Canton. It has a population of about one hundred and sixty thousand. We were kindly entertained for supper at the Baptist mission, and attended their evening Chinese service, conducted by a senior missionary from Canton. This is one of their oldest churches in the province. The Church of England has also a mission here.
The next morning we crossed the West River, and were conveyed by a cargo boat up one of the smaller rivers. The water was shallow, and the boat was kept in motion by several men pushing vigorously with their bamboo poles, or running along the shore pulling with a long line, one end of which was attached to the top of the mast. When evening came, the boat was made fast, and we rolled up in our blankets for the night.
Early the next day we again started up the river. Frequently the boat became lodged on sand-bars, so our progress was very slow. Toward noon we decided that we could save one day's time by walking. Accordingly, we left our baggage on board, and Mr. Leung and I set out for a walk of seventy li, about twenty-three miles. The scenery was beautiful, and the weather as pleasant as June.
Arriving at a village called Eau Goo, we were glad to refresh ourselves with a drink of boiled water and a dish of rice. Many people were attracted by the presence of the fan kwai,—"foreign devil,"—as they called me, and as soon as we had eaten, I went out and sold tracts to them. At 8 P. M. we arrived at our destination, San Chuen, where we received a cordial welcome by my friend's mother, a strong, active woman of sixty years.
The next day, Friday, was market-day in a neighboring village, and we again had an opportunity of scattering the printed page. That evening we began a series of meetings, which we conducted for five nights in my teacher's house. I talked to the people a short time about the true God, who created all things, and about his love for us, and was followed by Dr. Leung, who showed the foolishness and sinfulness of worshiping idols. We were assisted in these services by a native Bible woman, who has had an interesting experience. She first heard the gospel at a distant village market-place. It required a whole day to go and come, with only a short time to listen to the sacred story. Afterward a Christian preacher accompanied her to Canton, to attend a mission school. Then people said she had been taken to Canton and sold as a slave. Since leaving school she has spent about six years in the gospel work. While many native Christian workers prefer to live in Canton or Hongkong, she feels a special burden for the people of her native country. She has become interested in our work, and will come to Canton soon to learn more about the truths we hold.
On Sunday we walked about three miles to San Hing, a city of one hundred thousand people. There is only one mission chapel here. This is under the direction of the Congregational mission. About half a dozen believers came together, and we were invited to speak. The presence of a foreigner (myself) drew a crowd of about fifty, but the idolatrous parades and shooting of fire-crackers kept up such a din that it was very hard for the people to hear.
Coming back through the city, I sold tracts and portions of the Gospel. (We have a good tract on the ten commandments, and a new edition of "The Sinner's Need of Christ," from "Steps to Christ.") We went again on Monday, and sold more tracts. Some of the people seemed glad to get the literature, while others looked at me in a fierce manner, and told me to move on. I did not venture to remain long at one place in the street, as the people gathered thickly around me, and I feared there might be trouble. Twenty years ago Dr. Leung and his father and brother opened up mission work here, but were attacked by a great mob, and would have been killed had not the officials protected them and helped them to get away. Later, a native Baptist tried to begin work, but no one would come to see him, or sell him anything to eat, and he was thus forced to abandon the work. I feel a special burden for that city, and wish the way might open for me to do more for the people there. I hope to be able to visit them again next summer.
This city is three miles from San Chuen, my teacher's home village. In the latter place there is a good interest to hear the gospel, and our teacher is anxious that some one be sent there to carry on the work, using his house to live in and for meeting purposes, or for a mission school, but at present we have no one to send.
After a ten days' sojourn, we returned to Canton. We had had a pleasant and profitable journey. Many foreigners find it difficult to live on Chinese food; but without using any flesh foods, I gained in strength during my absence. As it was New-year, when many return to their native villages, bringing money with them, the country was infested by robbers. One place where I sold tracts was, four days later, visited in the daytime by a band of four hundred robbers. Surely the Lord was good to us, protecting us in our journey, and blessing our efforts to bring light to those who sit in darkness. On our homeward way we came by water entirely, passing many large villages, some of which have one hundred thousand inhabitants and no mission chapel. The field is large. But the Saviour has promised that "this gospel shall be preached in all the world." Pray for us.
